Most people choose internal doors the wrong way round. They start with a style they like, then discover halfway through the project that the opening needed a fire door, that the frame will not carry the weight, that the size does not exist, or that the door they chose cannot take the handle they wanted.
This guide runs the decision in the order that actually works. Ten steps, in sequence, from the constraints you cannot change to the choices that are purely yours. Every product count and price quoted comes from our own live internal doors range, so you can check the current position yourself.
Start with the opening, not the door
Before you look at a single product photo, spend ten minutes understanding the opening you are filling. Six pieces of information will shape every later decision.
What the room is actually for
A bedroom, a home office and a downstairs cloakroom ask completely different things of a door. Write the function down for each opening, because it is the single strongest predictor of what you should specify.
How much traffic the door sees
Count the openings and closings on a typical day. A hallway door might see fifty. An airing cupboard might see two a week. Traffic drives durability and hardware quality more than anything else.
Who uses the room
Children, elderly relatives, wheelchair users, pets and visitors all change the answer. Hardware type, opening force and clear width matter far more in some households than in others.
Whether the door needs to close properly
Some doors need to seal for sound, smell or privacy. Others simply need to screen a recess. Being honest about this stops you overspending on openings that ask nothing.
The condition of the existing frame
Look at the lining. Is it square, solid and firmly fixed? Does it flex when you push it? A tired lining will undermine a good door, and replacing it is easier while the old door is off. We list over 30 products in our internal frames range.
The floor covering, now and later
Door height depends on the finished floor level. If you are laying new flooring after fitting doors, allow for it, or you will be trimming doors twice. Our guide to measuring a door covers this properly.
Which way the door should swing
Consider furniture, light switches, radiators and collision with other doors. Changing the hand is far cheaper to decide now than to fix later.
The ten step decision sequence
Work through these in order. Each step narrows the field, and the early steps remove choices that were never really available.
Step one: fire requirement
Non negotiable, so it comes first. If the opening needs a certified fire door, style and budget follow the certification rather than the other way round.
Step two: format
Hinged, sliding, folding, pocket or divider. This decides how much space the door consumes and what gear it needs.
Step three: core
Hollow, semi solid or solid. This decides sound performance, durability and how the door feels in the hand.
Step four: material
Engineered timber, oak, walnut, pine or laminate. This decides appearance, maintenance and price band.
Step five: style
Flush, panelled, shaker, cottage or contemporary. The first genuinely aesthetic decision.
Step six: finish
Factory finished, primed or unfinished. This decides how much work happens after delivery.
Step seven: glazing
Solid, clear glazed, frosted, reeded or tinted. This decides light and privacy together.
Step eight: size
Standard imperial, standard metric or trimmed to fit. Get this wrong and nothing else matters.
Step nine: frame and lining
Reuse, upgrade or replace. Heavier doors and fire doors change the answer.
Step ten: hardware
Hinges, handle, latch or lock, and any closer or stop. Budget for this properly, because it is where cheap projects feel cheap.
Step one: does this opening need a fire door
This is the only step where the answer is not yours to choose, and it is the step we deliberately keep short and cautious.
Why this question comes first
A fire rated opening removes most of your freedom immediately. If you choose style first and discover the requirement later, you start again. We list 246 certified options in our fire doors range from £87.39.
What FD30 and FD60 describe
These designations refer to tested resistance periods for a complete door assembly, not for a leaf on its own. We hold over 150 FD30 fire doors from £87.39 and 8 FD60 fire doors from £257.75.
The assembly, not just the door
Frame, hinges, intumescent and smoke seals, latch, closer and any glazing are all part of the certified arrangement. Substituting an uncertified component can undo the whole installation. Our article on fire doors: what, why and where goes into more detail.
Hinges and closers for fire doors
We list over 50 fire rated hinges from £8.99 and door closers from £95.50. Use the specified components rather than whatever is in the van.
Glazed and dark finish fire doors
Certification does not force you into plain white. We stock over 50 glazed fire doors and over 20 black fire doors.
What you must never do
Never wedge or prop a fire door open, never fit a stop that holds it open, never block the threshold gap, never remove the closer, never fit adhesive hardware, never cut beyond the certified allowance, never fit a cat flap or letter plate, never reglaze it yourself and never paint the seal groove. Our article on a fire door slamming covers noise without compromising safety.
Who to ask
Requirements depend on the building, its use, occupancy and escape strategy, and they change over time. Confirm what your property needs with your local building control body, a fire risk assessor or another competent professional. Do not treat any article, including this one, as a compliance decision.
Step two: choosing the door format
Format is about space. In small UK rooms the swing of a door often costs more usable floor area than people realise.
Standard hinged doors
Simple, reliable, cheapest to fit and easiest to seal. Where you have the swing space, this is almost always the right answer. Browse our full internal door range of over 710 products.
Bi-fold doors
Folding doors halve the swing projection, which suits tight en suites and cupboards. Gear has a weight limit, so leaves are usually lighter. We stock 15 bi-fold doors from £131.35. See how bi-fold doors work and our bi-fold door ideas.
Sliding doors on a track
A sliding leaf removes the swing entirely but needs clear wall to slide onto. We list 16 sliding door kit systems, and matching the leaf weight to the track rating is essential.
Pocket doors
The neatest space saving solution, because the door disappears into the wall. It requires a cassette built into the stud, so it belongs to the construction stage. Our 4 pocket door systems start at £298.99.
Double doors and French pairs
A pair makes a generous opening between reception rooms and can be left open without looking odd. Our French doors guide covers sizing and hardware for pairs.
Room dividers
Full height glazed screens with a door section suit open plan homes that need occasional separation. Our 17 room dividers start at £498.06.
Stable and ledged doors
Split and ledged designs suit period properties, boot rooms and rural homes. See our stable doors guide and our cottage doors from £55.99.
Ladder and specialist formats
Unusual formats such as our 2 ladder doors exist for specific situations. Read the product page rather than assuming standard behaviour.
Step three: choosing the core
Core is the invisible decision that determines how the door performs. It matters more than the face design and it is the thing people most often get wrong.
Hollow core
A timber perimeter with a lightweight infill and thin face panels. Cheap, light, easy to hang, and acoustically almost useless. Perfectly sensible for cupboards and rarely used rooms.
Semi solid
A partial or lower density infill. Feels considerably better than hollow core for a modest premium, and works well for secondary bedrooms.
Solid core
A continuous dense core through the full thickness. Quieter, tougher, holds hardware anywhere, and feels expensive. Most of our over 350 fully finished doors are built this way.
How to decide per opening
Ask whether anyone needs quiet on the other side of that door. If yes, go solid. If no, save the money. Our detailed comparison of hollow core and solid core internal doors works through every measure.
What core does to weight
Solid core doors are a two person lift and need a properly fixed frame and usually three hinges. Factor that into your fitting plan.
Mixing cores in one house
Entirely normal and financially sensible. Keep the face design and finish consistent and nobody will ever notice that the cupboard door is lighter.
Step four: choosing the material
Material sets the look, the maintenance and most of the price. There is no single best answer, only the right answer for the room.
Engineered timber with primed faces
The volume choice in UK homes. Stable, affordable, paintable and available in every style. See our over 80 white primed doors from £30.84.
Oak
Warm, characterful and the most requested premium timber. We stock over 290 internal oak doors from £87.75. Our guide on whether oak internal doors are worth it weighs up the cost.
Walnut
Darker and more dramatic than oak, and it changes a room considerably. We list over 30 walnut internal doors, and our oak versus walnut comparison shows how they differ in practice.
Pine and softwood
Suits cottages, period properties and rustic schemes. Softer, so it marks more easily. See our 6 pine internal doors.
Laminate
Hard wearing, colour consistent and easy to clean, which makes it a strong choice for busy family homes and commercial interiors. We list over 20 laminated doors from £75.00.
Glass as a material
Glazed apertures are part of the material decision, not an afterthought. Our over 280 glazed doors start at £107.25.
How to compare materials fairly
Compare like for like: same core, same finish, same size. Our overview of internal door materials sets out the trade offs.
Step five: choosing the style
Style is where personal taste finally gets a say. The only real rule is that the doors should agree with the house.
Flush and smooth
Plain faces suit modern interiors and disappear quietly into a scheme. They are also the most affordable option.
Panelled designs
Two, four and six panel designs read as traditional and suit Victorian, Edwardian and interwar houses. They also break up large door faces visually.
Shaker
Simple square framing that works in both period and contemporary homes, which is why it has become the safest premium choice. See our 9 shaker doors from £106.50.
Cottage, ledged and braced
Board effect and framed designs suit older rural properties. Our 11 cottage doors cover this territory.
Contemporary grooved and slatted
Horizontal or vertical grooves give a modern, architectural feel. Pair them with matching wall panelling for a coherent look.
Matching doors to the period of the house
Our comparison of traditional and modern internal doors and our round up of popular internal door styles both help you match era and design.
Consistency versus variety
Use one door design throughout the main circulation and allow yourself one exception for a feature opening. Too much variety reads as accidental.
Step six: choosing the finish
Finish decides how much work you do after the delivery lorry leaves, and it has a bigger effect on the final look than most people expect.
Fully finished
Factory lacquered or painted, ready to hang. No dust, no drying time, no brush marks. Our over 350 fully finished doors cover most popular styles.
Primed
Supplied with a base coat, ready for your topcoat. This gives you exact colour control for a small amount of work. Our guide to painting an interior door covers technique.
Unfinished
Complete freedom over stain, oil or lacquer, at the cost of real site work. We list over 80 unfinished internal doors.
Which route suits which project
Fully finished suits tight programmes and anyone who dislikes decorating. Primed suits bespoke colour schemes. Unfinished suits natural timber lovers. Our pre finished, unfinished and primed guide compares all three.
Colour: white
Still the default in UK homes, because it is forgiving and brightens dark hallways. See the best white internal doors guide.
Colour: grey and muted tones
Our over 60 grey internal doors suit calmer schemes. The best grey internal doors round up shows current favourites.
Colour: black and dark finishes
We stock over 110 black internal doors. They look striking against pale walls but show dust and fingerprints, so pair them with a durable finish.
White or oak: the perennial question
Our white versus oak comparison settles it room by room rather than declaring a winner.
Keeping the finish looking new
Read cleaning and maintaining oak doors and maintaining painted doors before you choose, because maintenance appetite is a legitimate selection criterion.
Step seven: deciding on glazing
Glazing is the cheapest way to move daylight around a British house, and internal doors are the most overlooked place to do it.
Clear glazing
Maximum light transfer, minimum privacy. Ideal between a dark hallway and a bright room. We list over 110 clear glazed doors.
Frosted and obscure glazing
Light without visibility, which suits bathrooms, cloakrooms and home offices. We stock over 20 frosted glazed doors.
Reeded and fluted glazing
Currently very popular and a good compromise between light and privacy. See our 7 reeded glazed doors.
Tinted glazing
Adds depth and a contemporary feel. We list 5 tinted glazed doors.
When to choose solid instead
Bedrooms usually want no glazing at all, and glazing reduces the acoustic mass of a door. Our over 420 unglazed doors start at £30.84.
Glazing and safety
Glass in doors and in critical locations is a safety matter. Use products supplied as door glazing systems, do not substitute glass yourself, and take advice on any glazed door near a low level or high traffic position.
Where glazing pays for itself
Internal hallways with no window, rear extensions, understairs passages and basement conversions all benefit disproportionately.
Step eight: getting the size right
More orders go wrong on size than on anything else. UK housing stock contains both imperial and metric openings, often in the same building.
Imperial and metric coexist
Older homes tend to have imperial openings, newer ones metric. Never assume from the age of the house. Measure every opening individually.
Measure the opening, not the old door
The existing door may have been trimmed, packed or hung badly. Measure the lining width and height in three places each and work from the smallest reading.
Check for square
Measure both diagonals. If they differ, the opening is out of square and the door will need scribing rather than simple trimming.
Allow for the finished floor
Measure to the finished floor level, including any flooring still to be laid. Our range of vinyl flooring varies in build up, so confirm the thickness before ordering doors.
Thickness matters too
Door thickness affects hardware selection, latch backset and how the door sits in the rebate. Fire doors are generally thicker than standard doors.
Trimming allowances
Every door has a stated maximum removal per edge. Exceeding it weakens the door and can void the warranty, and on a fire door it can invalidate certification. Our guide to planing a door explains how to work within limits.
Full size reference
Our guide to internal door sizes lists every standard size we stock in both systems, and how to measure a door walks through the process step by step.
When no standard size fits
If the opening falls between sizes, order up and trim within the allowance, or alter the lining. Never force an undersized door and fill the gaps.
Step nine: frames, linings and architrave
The opening is part of the product. A good door in a poor lining performs like a poor door.
Reuse, upgrade or replace
If the existing lining is square, solid and well fixed, reuse it. If it flexes or the fixings are into plasterboard alone, replace it before hanging a heavier door.
Frames versus linings
The two terms describe different constructions and different situations. Our over 30 product internal frames range covers both, plus 2 external frames.
Fire door frames and seals
Fire door assemblies need the specified frame arrangement and seals. This is not an area for improvisation.
Architrave and proportion
Architrave finishes the junction and sets the visual weight of the opening. We list 16 products in our architrave range, and our guide to door architraves covers profiles.
Matching skirting and architrave
Keep profiles consistent between skirting and architrave, or the room will look unresolved even when everything else is right.
Fixing into studwork
Locate the timber studs and fix into them, packing as needed. Plasterboard alone will not hold a door.
Step ten: choosing hardware
Hardware is the part of the door you actually touch, and it is where a modest extra spend delivers the most obvious quality upgrade.
Hinges
Our door hinge range holds 358 products, including over 20 butt hinges from £5.61 and over 40 concealed hinges. Heavier doors usually need three.
Hinge positioning
Setting out matters as much as quantity. See where to fit door hinges, and how to stop doors squeaking if existing hinges are already complaining.
Handles and levers
We list over 2,500 door handles, plus over 210 handles on back plates and over 280 pull handles. Our door handles guide explains rose, backplate and lever types.
Handle packs
Buying a matched pack keeps finishes consistent and works out cheaper than assembling parts individually. We list over 280 handle packs from £8.99.
Latches and locks
Our locks and latches range holds 723 products from £1.92, with 9 bedroom lock sets and 3 dead locks for specific situations.
Bathroom privacy sets
Use a proper privacy turn and release rather than a keyed lock. We stock over 60 bathroom locks from £6.64 and 18 bathroom handle sets.
Closers and stops
We list 4 door closers from £95.50 and over 30 door stops from £10.88. Stops protect walls, but they must never be used to hold a fire door open.
Finish consistency
Choose one hardware finish and carry it through the whole house. Our brand ranges from Carlisle Brass with 1460 products, Atlantic UK Hardware with 848 and Zoo Hardware with 153 make that straightforward.
Caring for hardware
Brass in particular rewards a little attention. See cleaning and maintaining brass door handles, and fixing a loose door handle when things work loose.
The full hardware department
Our door hardware department holds 2954 products, so you can match everything from one place, plus over 120 items in our accessories range.
Room by room recommendations
Here is how the ten steps resolve in the rooms of a typical UK home.
Front hallway and stairs
High traffic, often dark. Choose a durable solid core door, consider glazing to borrow light, and specify robust hardware.
Living room
Sound matters in both directions. A solid core door with good seals lets the rest of the house carry on while the television is on.
Main bedroom
Unglazed and solid core. This is the opening where mass pays for itself most obviously.
Children's bedrooms
Durable faces and no glazing. Consider how easily small hands can operate the handle you choose.
Home office
The best door in the house if you work from home. Solid core, well sealed, and a handle you enjoy using twenty times a day.
Bathroom and en suite
Privacy is the priority. Solid core, a proper privacy set, and adequate ventilation so the door is not exposed to constant humidity.
Downstairs cloakroom
Often a tight space, which makes a bi-fold or sliding option worth considering.
Kitchen
Noise, steam and smells all travel. A glazed door keeps sight lines open while still allowing the room to be closed off.
Utility and boot room
Function over beauty. Laminate faces cope well with wet coats, boots and appliance noise.
Understairs cupboard and airing cupboard
The right place to save money. A lightweight door does everything required here.
Loft conversions and attic rooms
Access, size and fire strategy are all commonly non standard. Take advice on the fire requirement before choosing anything.
Garage to house doors
These openings frequently carry specific requirements. Confirm with building control rather than choosing on appearance.
Home gym and music rooms
Mass and sealing are everything. Combine a heavy leaf with acoustic wall panels, where full panels start at £63.
Open plan spaces needing occasional separation
A room divider or a pair of glazed doors gives you both options without committing to either.
Budgeting with real prices
Rather than quote industry averages we cannot verify, here are genuine starting prices from our live range. Prices and stock change, so check the collection pages for the current position.
The entry point
Our most affordable internal doors start at £30.84. Across over 710 products in the internal doors range, this is where the plainest primed options sit.
Clearance and end of line
Our over 20 clearance doors start at £53.00 and frequently include better constructions at reduced prices, so check here before defaulting to the cheapest new stock.
Mid range
Laminated doors start at £75.00, oak from £87.75, cottage styles from £55.99 and shaker from £106.50. This band covers most family home projects.
Glazed and specialist
Glazed doors start at £107.25, bi-folds from £131.35, pocket systems from £298.99 and room dividers from £498.06.
Fire doors
Certified fire doors start at £87.39, which is a smaller premium over a finished standard door than most people expect.
The hardware line
Handle packs start at £8.99, latches from £1.92, butt hinges from £5.61 and bathroom locks from £6.64. Multiply by the number of openings early, because it adds up.
Frames and finishing
Budget separately for linings, architrave, filler, primer and paint. These are the items people forget and then resent.
Fitting labour
Labour varies widely by region and by the condition of your openings, so get written quotations from local joiners rather than trusting an average. Our article on internal door fitting costs explains what affects the figure.
How to allocate a fixed budget
Spend on the openings that ask the most and economise on the ones that ask nothing. This gives a better result than an even spread. Our guide to the cheapest internal doors works through the arithmetic.
Phasing the work
There is no requirement to replace every door at once. Doing the ground floor first, then bedrooms, spreads the cost while delivering visible progress.
Ordering checklist
Before you press buy, confirm every line below. Ten minutes here prevents the most common and most expensive mistakes.
Fire requirement confirmed
Confirmed with building control or a competent professional, not assumed.
Every opening measured individually
Width, height and thickness, in three places, to the finished floor level.
Handing decided
Swing direction agreed for each door, allowing for furniture and switches.
Format confirmed
Hinged, sliding, folding or pocket, with gear weight ratings checked.
Core specified per opening
Solid where quiet matters, lighter where nothing is asked.
Finish route chosen
Fully finished, primed or unfinished, with site time allowed if required.
Glazing decided
Clear, obscure, reeded, tinted or none, with privacy considered.
Frame condition assessed
Reuse, upgrade or replace, with fixings into timber confirmed.
Hardware listed in full
Hinges, handles, latch or lock, closer and stop, in one consistent finish.
Delivery and storage planned
Somewhere dry, flat and out of the way, with two people available for heavy leaves.
Fitting: do it yourself or pay someone
Hanging a door well is a genuine skill. Being honest about your own ability saves money in the long run.
What a straightforward job looks like
A square opening, a sound lining, a standard size door and a light leaf. If all four are true, a careful DIYer can manage.
What makes a job difficult
Out of square openings, damaged linings, non standard sizes, heavy leaves and any fire door. Any one of these argues for a professional.
Tools you will actually need
A sharp plane or power planer, a good chisel set, a drill, a combination square, packers, a straight edge and clamps. Blunt tools cause most DIY damage.
Order of work
Fit the door to the opening first, then hang it on the hinges, then fit the latch and handle last. Doing hardware before the door fits is the classic mistake.
Acclimatising the door
Store the door flat in the room where it will live for a few days before fitting, especially in a newly plastered house. Our guide to stopping doors swelling explains why.
Common fitting faults
Uneven gaps, hinge bind, latch misalignment and doors that drop are almost always fixing or setting out errors rather than product faults.
Fire doors and professional fitting
Fire door assemblies should be installed by someone competent, with the specified components and records retained. This is not a DIY learning project.
Aftercare
Check gaps and hinge screws after the first heating season. Small adjustments then prevent bigger problems later. Our guide to draughty doors covers sealing.
Responsible sourcing and longevity
Sustainability claims in the door market are often vague, so we prefer to be concrete about what you can actually control.
Buy once
The greenest door is the one you do not replace in five years. Specifying properly for the position is the single biggest environmental decision you make.
Ask about certification per product
Responsible forestry certification exists and is worth asking about. Because certification varies by product and production batch, ask us about the specific door you are considering rather than assuming it applies across a range.
Engineered construction uses timber efficiently
Engineered cores and veneered faces use less high grade timber than solid slabs while performing more predictably. Most of our Deanta, LPD and Mendes ranges are built this way.
Repair before replacing
Sticking, squeaking and loose hardware are all fixable. See stopping doors squeaking and fixing a loose door handle before condemning a door.
Refinish rather than discard
A solid door with a tired finish can be sanded and recoated. Note that UK homes decorated before 1992 may contain lead based paint, so do not dry sand or burn off old coatings. Take advice first.
Reuse and donate
Sound doors you remove are worth something to reuse organisations, salvage yards and neighbours. Skipping them should be the last option.
Common mistakes to avoid
Choosing style before checking the fire requirement
The most expensive sequencing error there is, because it can invalidate the whole order.
Buying one door type for the whole house
Uniform specification means either overspending on cupboards or underspending on bedrooms. Vary it.
Measuring the old door instead of the opening
Old doors have been trimmed and packed. The opening is the truth.
Forgetting the flooring build up
Fitting doors before flooring without allowing for it means trimming everything twice.
Ignoring the frame
A heavy door on a light lining will bind and drop within a year.
Under budgeting hardware
Cheap handles undo an expensive door every single time somebody touches it.
Over trimming
Exceeding the stated allowance weakens the door and voids warranties. On fire doors it can invalidate certification.
Mixing hardware finishes
Three different metal finishes in one hallway looks accidental rather than eclectic.
Not thinking about the swing
Doors that collide with each other, with radiators or with light switches are entirely avoidable.
Skipping the seals
Perimeter gaps undo both acoustic and draught performance. Sealing is cheap and effective, but never obstruct ventilation serving a gas or solid fuel appliance.
Frequently asked questions
What is the most important factor when choosing an internal door
Whether the opening carries a fire requirement. After that, the core, because it determines how the door performs day to day.
How many internal door sizes are standard in the UK
Both imperial and metric standard ranges are in common use. Our internal door sizes guide lists everything we stock.
Can I fit a metric door in an imperial opening
Sometimes, within the trimming allowance, but often not. Measure first and choose the size range that fits with the least material removed.
Are glazed internal doors a good idea with children
They can be, provided the glazing system is appropriate for the position. Take advice on any glazed door in a low level or high traffic location.
Do I need three hinges
Heavier doors usually do, and fire doors follow their certified arrangement. Follow the manufacturer instructions for the specific product.
What is the cheapest way to update doors without replacing them
New hardware and a good repaint. It costs a fraction of replacement and changes the feel of a hallway completely.
Should all internal doors match
Broadly yes on the main circulation. Small variations behind the scenes are fine and often sensible.
Which door is best for soundproofing
A heavy solid core leaf with sealed perimeter gaps. No lightweight door can be made genuinely quiet.
How long do internal doors last
A well fitted solid core door in a domestic setting can last decades. A lightweight door in a busy hallway may need replacing far sooner.
Do internal doors affect heating
Closing doors helps you heat rooms selectively, and reducing draughts around doors helps further. See our guide to door U values for the external door equivalent.
Can I paint a factory finished door
Usually not successfully without careful preparation, and it may affect the warranty. If you want a bespoke colour, buy primed or unfinished.
What if my opening is not square
The door will need scribing to the opening. This is where professional fitting earns its money.
Do I need building control approval to change internal doors
Like for like replacement in a normal home usually does not, but fire doors, structural alterations and some conversions can. Ask your local building control body, and check for listed building consent or conservation area restrictions before altering historic joinery.
Why buy from Doors2Floors
One supplier for the whole project
710 internal doors, over 90 external doors from £86.79, 246 fire doors, 2954 hardware products, frames, architrave and flooring in one place.
Brands we carry
502 products from LPD, 258 from Deanta, 40 from Mendes and 16 from BCD.
Experience behind the advice
Doors2Floors has supplied doors and flooring to homes and businesses across the UK, so the guidance here reflects what works on real jobs.
Honest specification advice
We will happily tell you that a cheaper door is the right answer for a cupboard. Over specifying helps nobody.
Next steps
Print your floor plan, mark every opening, and note the function, traffic level and fire question for each one. Then work the ten steps in order. You will end up with a better set of doors for the same money than any amount of browsing achieves.
Begin with our internal doors range, compare fully finished against unfinished, and read choosing the best internal doors for modern UK homes alongside our overview of internal door materials.
Product counts and prices in this article were taken from our live range and are subject to change. Fire door and building regulation requirements vary by building, use and location, and are revised over time. Nothing here is a compliance assessment. Confirm what your project needs with your local building control body, a fire risk assessor or another competent professional before you order.