Hinges are the smallest components in a door set, they are almost always chosen last, and they carry the entire weight of the door every single time it moves. Get them wrong and the door drops, binds, squeaks or tears its screws out of the lining. Get them right and nobody ever thinks about them again.
This guide covers the types, how weight and traffic drive the choice, how many you need, and what our own range actually contains. Doors2Floors has supplied doors and flooring to homes and businesses across the UK, and our door hinges collection currently holds over 350 lines.
The Short Answer
For a light internal door in a home, a plain butt hinge is normally adequate. As the door gets heavier or busier, a ball bearing hinge is the better choice because the bearings at the knuckle reduce friction and wear. Fire doors are a separate case entirely, and the hinge specification has to be confirmed against the door manufacturer instructions rather than assumed.
If you remember one thing
Match the hinge to the weight of the door and the traffic it sees, not to the price or the finish. Finish is the last decision, not the first.
If you remember two things
Never mix hinge specifications on the same door, and never reuse tired hinges on a new leaf. New doors deserve new hinges.
Hinge Types Explained
Most of the confusion around hinges comes from the number of names in circulation. Here is what each type actually is and where it belongs.
Butt hinges
The standard hinge for an internal door. Two rectangular leaves joined by a knuckle, recessed into both the door edge and the lining so the two leaves close flush. Plain butt hinges have no bearings and rely on the fit of the knuckle.
Ball bearing hinges
The same shape as a butt hinge but with bearings inside the knuckle. They run more smoothly, wear far more slowly and cope with heavier leaves and higher traffic. They are the largest group in our range and the default recommendation for anything solid, glazed or oak.
Grade rated hinges
Hinges are sold against grades that describe the duty they are certified for. Higher grades cover heavier doors and more demanding use. Where a grade is specified for your door, use that grade rather than something that looks similar.
Flush hinges
These fold into themselves so they need no recess at all. They are quick to fit and suit light doors, cupboard doors and situations where cutting a recess is impractical. They are not a substitute for a butt hinge on a proper room door.
Tee hinges and strap hinges
The long horizontal hinge you see on ledged and braced doors, garden gates and outbuildings. They spread the load across the boards of a door that has no stiles to hang from. Our external doors range includes ledged and braced leaves from £86.79 that use exactly this arrangement.
Rising butt hinges
These lift the door slightly as it opens so it clears a carpet, and let it fall closed under its own weight. They need the top of the door leading edge easing so it does not catch the lining.
Parliament and projection hinges
These throw the door clear of a deep reveal or an architrave so it can open right back against the wall. They are a solution to a specific geometry problem rather than a general upgrade.
Concealed hinges
Invisible when the door is closed, and much more demanding to fit accurately. They suit flush contemporary joinery where any visible knuckle would spoil the line.
Latch and hinge packs
Sets that supply a matched latch and three hinges in one item, which removes the risk of mismatched finishes. Our range includes packs combining a tubular latch with three hinges at £18.84.
What Our Hinge Range Actually Contains
These are live figures rather than generic advice, so you can see what you are actually choosing between.
The size of the range
We list over 350 door hinge lines. That covers hinges themselves plus the screws, plates and small fixings that sit alongside them, which is why the very cheapest item in the collection is a mounting screw at £0.21 rather than a hinge.
Ball bearing hinges
Ball bearing patterns are the largest single group in the range. They start at £2.37 for a Carlisle Brass antique brass non graded ball bearing hinge.
Grade 13 fire rated hinges
Grade 13 ball bearing hinges intended for fire door applications start at £4.63 for a Carlisle Brass satin stainless steel square pattern, and run up to £18.75 for an Atlantic 4 inch by 3 inch antique copper pair.
Tee and strap hinges
A substantial group covering boarded doors, gates and outbuildings.
Butt hinges
Plain butt patterns in a range of sizes and finishes for standard internal doors.
Flush hinges
A small group for light and cupboard doors where no recess is wanted.
Finishes available
Satin stainless, polished chrome, satin chrome, satin nickel, antique brass, electro brass, antique copper and bright zinc plated all appear across the range. Match the hinge finish to your handles rather than to the door.
Matching to handles
Our over 2,500 door handle lines, over 280 handle packs from £8.99 and over 200 handles on back plate lines cover the same finish families. Our door handles guide explains the functions.
Door Weight and Frequency of Use
Weight and traffic are the two variables that decide the hinge. Everything else is detail.
Light doors
Hollow core and light flush leaves are the easiest case. A plain butt hinge in a suitable size is normally enough. Our cheapest internal leaf, the LPD White Primed Flush at £30.84, sits in this category.
Medium weight doors
Most panelled and moulded internal doors sit here. Ball bearing hinges are a sensible upgrade and cost very little more per door.
Heavy doors
Solid core, oak, walnut and glazed leaves are considerably heavier. Our over 290 internal oak doors from £87.75, over 30 internal walnut doors from £167.45 and over 280 glazed doors from £107.25 all need hinges specified for the weight.
Very heavy doors
External leaves, fire doors and oversized doors are the top of the scale. Our external doors reach £1,110 and our fire doors reach £1,300. Nothing about these should be guessed.
High traffic openings
A hallway, a kitchen or a commercial corridor door moves many more times a day than a spare bedroom door. Bearings matter far more in those positions.
Low traffic openings
An airing cupboard or a loft access door barely moves. Specification can be simpler, though it should still suit the weight.
Doors with closers
A closer adds continuous load. Anything fitted with a closer should be on bearings.
How to judge weight without a scale
Lift one edge. If a single person cannot comfortably hold and position it alone, treat it as heavy and specify accordingly.
How Many Hinges Does a Door Need?
Two hinges
Only appropriate for genuinely light doors such as small cupboard doors. Two hinges concentrate all the load on two points.
Three hinges
The normal arrangement for a standard internal door. The third hinge sits near the top and takes the pull that would otherwise twist the leaf.
More than three
Heavier, taller or wider leaves may need additional hinges. Follow the door manufacturer instructions rather than a rule of thumb.
Fire doors
Fire door assemblies have their own requirements for hinge number, size and specification. Confirm them against the manufacturer instructions and your local building control body rather than assuming three is correct.
Why the top hinge matters most
The top hinge takes the tension load as the door tries to sag away from the lining. A failed top hinge is the most common cause of a dropped door.
Why the bottom hinge matters second
The bottom hinge takes the compression load. It usually shows wear as a squeak long before it shows as movement.
Spacing
Standard practice puts the top hinge a set distance down from the top of the leaf, the bottom hinge a set distance up from the bottom, and the third slightly below the top hinge rather than centrally. Our guide on where to fit door hinges covers the positioning in detail.
Hinge Sizes and What They Mean
Reading a hinge size
Hinges are described by the height of the leaf, the open width and the thickness of the plate. A 4 inch by 3 inch by 3mm hinge is 4 inches tall, 3 inches across when open and 3mm thick.
Height
Taller hinges spread the load over more of the door edge. Heavier doors need taller hinges.
Width
Width has to suit the thickness of the door and the depth of the lining rebate, or the door will not open fully.
Thickness
Thicker plates carry more load and resist bending. This is the specification most often overlooked.
Knuckle and pin
The knuckle is where the two leaves join and the pin runs through it. Fixed pin hinges are more secure than loose pin hinges on any door where security matters.
Radius or square corners
Square cornered hinges suit hand cut recesses. Radius cornered hinges suit router cut recesses. Match the hinge to how the recess will be made.
Common mistakes on size
Buying a hinge that is too wide for the lining, or too thin for the leaf, are the two errors we see most. Measure the existing recess before ordering replacements.
Fire Doors and Hinges
This is the part of hinge selection where guessing is genuinely dangerous, so we are going to be careful about what we claim.
The assembly is what performs
A fire door is certified as a complete assembly. The leaf, the frame, the hinges, the intumescent and smoke seals, the latch, the closer and any glazing all form part of that certification. Changing one component can affect the performance of the whole.
Hinges are part of the certification
You cannot fit ordinary hinges to a fire door and expect the assembly to perform as certified. The hinge specification is part of what was tested.
Intumescent hinge pads
Some specifications require intumescent material behind the hinge. Whether yours does is a question for the door manufacturer instructions, not for a general article.
What we will not tell you
We will not tell you what your specific building requires, what grade your specific opening needs, or that any particular product satisfies any particular regulation. We are a supplier, not your fire risk assessor.
Who to ask
Your local building control body, a competent fire risk assessor or a suitably qualified professional, with reference to the door manufacturer instructions.
Things that quietly destroy fire performance
Wedging or propping the door open. Removing the closer. Blocking the threshold gap. Painting or filling the seal groove. Planing the leaf beyond the certified allowance, including to clear a new floor.
Our fire door range
We list over 240 fire doors from £87.39, including over 150 FD30, 8 FD60 and over 50 glazed fire door lines. Our guides on what fire doors are and where they go, fire door materials and stopping a fire door slamming are background reading rather than compliance advice.
Hinges for Different Door Types
Standard internal doors
Three hinges suited to the leaf weight. Across our over 700 internal doors from £30.84 that covers most of the range.
Oak and hardwood doors
Heavier and denser. Ball bearing hinges, and check the screw length is suited to the lining. Our oak doors value guide covers the wider decision.
Glazed doors
Glass adds weight in the middle of the leaf, which changes how it hangs. Our over 110 clear glazed and over 20 frosted glazed lines all sit above the weight of an equivalent solid leaf.
External doors
Weather, weight and security all apply. Fixed pin hinges and a frame fixed properly into masonry matter more than the hinge alone. Our front door costs guide covers the whole assembly.
Bifold doors
Folding sets use their own gear rather than conventional hinges. Our 15 bi fold door lines from £131.35 come with the appropriate arrangement, and our explainer on how bifolds work covers the mechanism.
Sliding and pocket doors
No hinges at all. Our 16 sliding door kit systems and 4 pocket door systems from £298.99 use track and runners instead.
French pairs and room dividers
Two or more leaves meeting, so alignment matters as much as load. Our 3 french door pairs from £407.44 and 17 room dividers from £498.06 both need careful setting.
Stable doors
Two independently hung halves, each needing its own correctly specified hinges. Our stable doors guide covers the arrangement.
Cupboard and wardrobe doors
Light leaves where flush or concealed hinges are often the neatest answer.
Fitting Hinges Properly
Mark from the door, not the lining
Hang the door in the opening on packers, mark the hinge positions across both leaf and lining at the same time, and you avoid the most common alignment error.
Cut the recess to the right depth
Too shallow and the door will not close. Too deep and it binds on the hinge side. The hinge plate should sit flush with the timber surface.
Chisel or router
A router with a jig gives a consistent depth and a radius corner. A sharp chisel gives a square corner and takes longer. Both work.
Pilot holes every time
Driving screws into hardwood without pilot holes splits the timber and snaps screws. This is the single most common DIY hinge failure.
Screw length matters
Short screws into a soft lining will pull out under load. At least one long screw per hinge into the structure behind the lining makes a real difference on heavy doors.
Fit one screw per hinge first
Hang the door on a single screw per hinge, check the swing and the gaps, then complete the fixing. Correcting at that point is easy.
Check the gaps
Even gaps down both stiles and across the head are what make a door look professionally hung. Uneven gaps usually mean a recess depth problem rather than a hinge problem.
Do not overtighten
Overtightened screws in a soft lining strip the thread and the hinge works loose within months.
Related reading
Our guides on measuring a door, planing a door and internal door fitting costs cover the rest of the job.
Diagnosing Hinge Problems
The door drops or catches at the top corner
Usually the top hinge. Check for loose or stripped screws before anything else.
The door binds on the hinge side
The recesses are cut too deep. Packing behind the hinge plate is the usual fix.
The door will not close and springs back
The recesses are too shallow, or something is caught behind a hinge plate.
The door squeaks
Dry knuckles. Our guide on stopping doors squeaking covers the fix and what not to use.
Screws keep working loose
The holes are worn. Plug and redrill rather than moving up to a fatter screw, which only splits the timber.
The hinge knuckle is worn or rattling
Replace it, and replace all the hinges on that door at the same time so they wear evenly.
The door sticks only in wet weather
That is the door moving, not the hinges. Our guide on stopping doors swelling covers it.
The handle is loose, not the door
Different problem entirely. Our guide to fixing a loose door handle covers that.
Draughts around the door
Hinge side draughts usually mean the lining is not plumb rather than a hinge fault. Our draughty doors guide covers the causes.
Room by Room Hinge Specification
Specifying by room rather than by house stops you paying for bearings on a loft hatch and skimping on the front hall.
Front entrance
Heaviest leaf, most weather, most security. Fixed pin hinges rated for the weight, fixed into a frame that is properly anchored.
Hallway and landing doors
Highest traffic in the house. Ball bearing every time, and this is where the finish is most visible.
Living room
Often a heavier solid leaf for sound. Bearings suited to the weight.
Kitchen
Frequent use plus steam and temperature swings. Bearings, and a finish that wipes clean.
Bedrooms
Moderate use. Quiet operation matters more than load capacity, which again points at bearings.
Bathrooms
Humidity is hard on plated finishes. Choose a finish suited to a wet room and expect to see it age faster than elsewhere.
Home office
Usually a heavier solid leaf chosen for sound, so specify for the weight rather than the room.
Utility and boot room
Hard use, low visibility. Function over finish.
Understairs and airing cupboards
Light doors, often non standard. Flush hinges are frequently the practical answer.
Loft and attic access
Barely used and often awkward. Our 2 ladder door lines cover compact openings.
Garage to house
Often a fire separation opening with its own hinge requirements. Confirm with your local building control body before ordering.
Conservatory and garden room
Big temperature swings and more movement in the leaf. Specify generously.
Rental and shared properties
Higher traffic and less careful use than an owner occupied home. Specify a grade up from what the weight alone suggests.
Hinges as Part of the Whole Door Set
The lining carries the hinge
A hinge is only as good as what it is screwed into. Our over 30 internal frames and linings from £29.25 are the other half of the equation, and our architraves guide covers the trim that hides the joint.
The latch works with the hinges
If the hinges are set correctly and the latch is not, the door will still not close cleanly. Fit them as a pair.
The handle finish sets the scheme
Our over 2,500 door handle lines, over 280 pull handles and over 30 door stop styles from £10.88 all come in the same finish families.
The door decides the hinge
Not the other way round. Choose the leaf first from our over 350 fully finished, over 80 unfinished or over 80 white primed options, then specify the hinges to suit.
Style ranges to consider
Our 9 shaker doors from £106.50, 11 cottage doors from £55.99 and around 30 laminated doors from £75.00 all sit in different weight brackets.
Budget options still need proper hinges
Our over 20 clearance doors from £53.00 are a genuine saving. Spending that saving on decent hinges is a good trade.
Reading the rest of the range
Our guides to white internal doors, grey internal doors, white versus oak and hollow versus solid core all touch on weight, which is what your hinges care about.
Finishes, Matching and Getting the Look Right
Match the hinge to the handle
The hinge is visible whenever the door is open. Matching it to your handles rather than to the door is what makes an interior look considered.
Satin and brushed finishes
Forgiving on fingerprints and the most popular choice in contemporary UK interiors.
Polished chrome
Bright and clean, and it shows marks more readily. It suits bathrooms and modern schemes.
Antique brass and antique copper
Warm traditional finishes that suit period properties. Our over 200 handles on back plate lines cover the same look.
Black
Still the strongest trend in UK interiors, and it works particularly well against our over 110 internal black doors from £77.50 and over 60 internal grey doors from £75.00.
Zinc plated and utility finishes
Perfectly good where the hinge will not be seen, such as cupboards, lofts and outbuildings.
Caring for brass and plated hardware
Our guide to cleaning and maintaining brass door handles applies to hinges in the same finish.
Do not mix finishes on one door
Three hinges in two finishes is the sort of detail nobody can unsee once it is pointed out.
Buying Hinges: A Practical Checklist
Weigh or judge the door first
Everything follows from this.
Count the doors, not the hinges
Three per door for most internal openings, then add spares. Running one hinge short on fitting day is a wasted afternoon.
Check the manufacturer instructions
Particularly on fire doors and heavy leaves, where the number and specification are set for you.
Measure the existing recess if replacing
Height, width and thickness. Matching them avoids recutting.
Decide fixed pin or loose pin
Fixed pin where security matters.
Choose square or radius corners
To match how the recesses will be cut.
Match the finish to the handles
Not to the door and not to the hinges you already have in another room.
Buy the screws you actually need
Including at least one long screw per hinge on heavy doors.
Order everything together
Doors, linings, hinges, latches and handles in one delivery. Our over 30 internal frames and linings include lining sets from £29.25.
Keep a written schedule
One line per opening recording door, hinge type, quantity and finish. It is the document that stops mistakes.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many hinges does an internal door need?
Three is the normal arrangement for a standard internal door. Light cupboard doors may take two. Heavier and fire rated doors follow the manufacturer instructions.
What is the difference between a butt hinge and a ball bearing hinge?
A ball bearing hinge has bearings in the knuckle that reduce friction and wear. A plain butt hinge does not. Ball bearing is the better choice for heavy or busy doors.
What hinges do I need for a fire door?
Whatever the door manufacturer instructions specify for that certified assembly. Confirm with your local building control body or a competent fire risk assessor. Do not substitute.
Can I reuse my old hinges on a new door?
You can, but you should not. Worn knuckles and stretched screw holes on a new leaf will cause a dropped door within a year.
What size hinges do I need?
Suited to the height, thickness and weight of the leaf. If replacing, measure the existing recess and match it.
Why does my door catch at the top?
Almost always the top hinge, and almost always loose or stripped screws.
Why does my door bind on the hinge side?
The recesses are cut too deep. Pack behind the plates rather than planing the door.
Do I need three hinges on a hollow core door?
Three is still good practice. Two concentrates all the load on two fixings.
What are rising butt hinges for?
Lifting the door as it opens so it clears a carpet, and letting it close under its own weight.
Are concealed hinges better?
They look neater and they are harder to fit accurately. They are a styling decision rather than a performance upgrade.
What finish should I choose?
Whatever matches your handles. Our handles guide covers the finish families.
Do hinges affect draughts?
Not directly. A draught on the hinge side usually means the lining is not plumb.
How much do hinges cost?
In our range, ball bearing hinges start at £2.37 and Grade 13 fire rated ball bearing hinges start at £4.63.
Why is the cheapest item in your hinge collection twenty one pence?
Because the collection includes the small mounting plates and screws that go with hinges, not just the hinges themselves.
Should I buy a latch and hinge pack?
If you want guaranteed matching finishes and one order line per door, yes. Our range includes packs at £18.84.
Where do the hinges go on the door?
Our guide on where to fit door hinges covers the standard positions.
Can I fit hinges myself?
Yes, with a sharp chisel or a router, a square, a drill and patience. Pilot every hole.
What screws should I use?
The ones supplied for the finish, plus at least one longer screw per hinge into the structure on heavy doors.
Buying Door Hinges From Doors2Floors
We have supplied doors and flooring to homes and businesses across the UK. Our door hinges collection holds over 350 lines covering ball bearing, butt, flush, tee and Grade 13 fire rated patterns in satin, chrome, nickel, brass, copper and zinc finishes, with ball bearing hinges from £2.37 and matched latch and hinge packs at £18.84.
If you are specifying a whole house, our over 700 internal doors from £30.84, over 30 linings and frames from £29.25 and over 280 handle packs from £8.99 let you order the whole schedule in one go. Our advice centre covers measuring, fitting and aftercare, and our guides to choosing the right door and door materials cover what the hinges will be carrying.
When do I need a parliament or a washered hinge?
A parliament hinge projects the leaf clear of a deep architrave so the door can swing back flat against the wall, which matters on narrow hallways. A washered hinge puts a bearing washer between the knuckles so a heavy or fully finished leaf turns smoothly and does not wear the pin. See parliament hinges and washered hinges.
Choosing the pattern for your door
If you have read this far and still are not sure, work from the leaf. A light internal door needs nothing more than three butt hinges. A flush or jib door that has to disappear into the wall needs concealed hinges, which also give you three-way adjustment after the door is hung. And any certified leaf must be hung on fire rated hinges that match the door’s test evidence, never on a standard hinge that happens to be the right size.
Prices and product counts are correct at the time of writing and are subject to change. Manufacturer fitting instructions always take precedence over general guidance, particularly on fire rated assemblies. Regulatory requirements vary by building, use and location. Confirm your specific obligations with your local building control body, a competent fire risk assessor or a suitably qualified professional before ordering or carrying out work.